Exotic Destination: Fire and Ice

Iceland ultramarathon offers a demanding 250k race past volcanoes and glaciers. It’ll make you feel like you’re the last person on earth.

As I stood on the makeshift start line for the 2012   Fire and Ice Ultramarathon in the Vatnajökull National   Park of Iceland, I had a lot of questions running through   my mind. I wondered why it was -5 C in August when   expected temperatures were 5 to 20 C. I wondered   where the route would take us since there were no   maps. I also wondered how my body would hold up. For   the past two days, I had been flying and driving to reach   the remote starting point, at the foot of continental   Europe’s largest glacier, east of Reykjavik. I had narrowly   made the 8 a.m. start, arriving by tundra buggy a mere   four hours earlier. The race director counted down, the   small crowd of volunteers cheered and our little band   of international racers surged off the line. Iceland’s first   staged ultramarathon had officially begun.

The Fire and Ice Ultra is a gruelling, but unbelievably   scenic 250k ultra marathon, winding northwards   from the edge of the massive Vatnajökull glacier. Over   seven days, competitors run through an unspoiled,   but rugged and remote landscape – generally devoid   of human disturbance. The terrain is diverse, and the   route passes through lunar volcanic and glacial terrain,   but also through dune fields, forests, across icy rivers   and alongside enormous waterfalls, such as Dettifoss.

During this event, we learned the hard way that   Iceland is known for having unpredictable weather.   August in this part of Iceland can be 20 C or -10 C, and   snow is definitely not out of the question. Our starting   altitude was higher than 1,000 metres above sea level   and the first few days were especially tough due to the   low temperatures. In addition to the cold, we had to   contend with snow and strong winds (gusting at over   65 km/h some days), which truly tested the mind and   body. What made this worse for me was that I had packed   extremely light (17-pound pack without water), so I   lacked the calories and clothes to fight the cold. Although   the race directors did everything they could to ensure our   safety and comfort, sleeping outdoors in those conditions   with a thin sleeping bag tested my resolve daily.

The race occurs entirely within Vatnajökull National Park.   The inaugural year lacked route maps, so each stage began with a   briefing to describe the route, terrain, and distance. The route was   marked by hundreds of pink flags, generally spaced about 50m   apart. Aid stations were located about 10k apart and provided   plenty of water and hugs from volunteers. Stage distances ranged   from 16k to 44k, but this year will see the addition of a long   stage (about 60k to 90k) followed by a rest day. The undulating   terrain is a mixture of rough gravel road, soft glacial till, volcanic   rock, sand dunes and loamy singletrack. Despite the challenging   weather, this race delivered a highly memorable experience   (bring a camera). The non-stop gorgeous scenery, bone-chilling   river crossings, hot springs, volcanoes and thundering waterfalls   made us feel like we accomplished something each day and   provided the ultimate adventure running experience.           I left Iceland feeling like I had tested myself on a challenging   race course, made fantastic new friends, and had experienced the   country’s various landscapes and hospitality first-hand. Races   like this remind me that there are still remote, pristine areas left   on the planet where we can feel like an explorer, adventurer, and   sometimes, the only person on Earth.

Getting there: Reaching the start line of the race is an exercise    in endurance in itself. There are direct flights to Reykjavik from Canada,    however, most routes will take you there via England (Heathrow). Once in Reykjavik you have two options: arrive early and take the scenic drive    northwards to Akueyri along the scenic coastline, or fly, which involves    transferring from Keflavík International Airport to Reykjavik Domestic    Airport. Once in Akueyri, athletes all travel together to the start line via    coach bus and tundra buggy, visiting several geysers and waterfalls during    the six-hour drive.

Accommodations: The competitor accommodations in Akueyri    were comfortable, modern and utilitarian. During the race, we slept in    tents and huts. Four athletes were allocated per tent, which made things    cozy, but fortunately all tents had a common area for gear and shoes separate    from the sleeping area. After the race, the athletes are housed again    in Akueyri at same guesthouses.

Entry fee: $2,800

– Simon Donato lives in Calgary and won the inaugural Fire and Ice ultra. He writes the Ultra Trail Tales blog on this site.