Exotic Destination: Run the Ridge in Santorini

Perched on a volcano, this tiny Greek island offers epic runs with breathtaking views. 

Nothing surprised me more than a  text message I got from my girlfriend a  couple of years ago. “I want to try out  this running thing,” she wrote. I was on  my way back from my last national crosscountry  championships. She was not a  runner; never had been, and I had never  tried to make her one. If you had said that  in a couple years we would be married,  I would have believed you. If you had  said we would go running together on our  honeymoon, I would have said you’d eaten  too many bananas, friend.

And yet, last spring on our honeymoon, my wife and I got in a  few runs on the beautiful island of Santorini. Santorini is a Greek  island in the Cyclades. It’s set on a volcano, which last erupted  in 1956, so there are no trees for shade, and the terrain is pretty  rough. You have to go looking for your running options as the  mountain roads are pretty tight and, the way the local taxi drivers  take the turns, even dangerous.

My wife and I are different runners. Despite not being  “competitive” anymore, I can still roll a 10k in about 35 minutes.  From her first run-walk in Montreal’s Jarry Park, Miriam now  regularly puts in anywhere from 4k to 6k, three, or sometimes  four days a week. Of course, I have to slow down to run with  her, and yeah, it takes a little longer. But, hey, that’s what the  honeymoon is all about: spending time together, not running  away from each other.

The first run we found ended up being about 8k: a steady  downhill for the first 2k, winding through rugged vineyards  and fields of wildf lowers. At the bottom of the hill, the road  followed the sea, and we ran into a strong sea wind for another  kilometre or so, tasting the salty air on our already sweat-salted  lips. The way back up took us through a couple smaller resorts that allow  visitors direct access to the winery tours. If that’s your thing, they might be  a better bet than staying in town.

Later that day we went for a walk, and found a bit of a longer trail to run  on. The next day I set out on the trail from Oia to Fira, the next town over.  What a view. The trail bisects the jagged volcanic ridge that defines the  island, falling off steeply on one side, then another, and sometimes, both,  leaving you feeling like you’re just running through the sky. I can see why  kings build their castles on mountain tops: the view really makes you feel  like you own the place.

The way to Fira is overall a gradual climb and takes about 50 minutes. The  way back, a little bit downhill (though the entire run is quite up and down)  was only 40 minutes. The route comes in at a very hilly 13.7k. I did this one  alone, startled dawdling German and French tourists along the way with  my uphill surges and abandoned downhill running.  Meanwhile, Miriam enjoyed the hot tub on our balcony.

The next day I did the same run, but veered off to a side  trail that leads up to a secondary peak, and what might be  the ruins of a Martello tower (or just an old well). From  there you can see 360 degrees around the island.

When runners travel, the question is always: will I be  able to get in my run? Between these two routes, there  was enough variety to keep us happy all week. If I had  been training for something serious, the trail to Fira  was probably good for a long run, doubled up, and the  flat road down by the ocean on the smaller loop would  not be a bad place to do some fartlek intervals, with the  wind at my back. But not on our honeymoon.

– John Lofranco