Jerusalem Marathon: a holy, hilly and extraordinary experience

Hosting a marathon in any city is a complex endeavour. In Jerusalem, where dozens of nations and religious denominations lay claim to any land they can get their hands on, and where a wall still divides the city, planning a safe, fun and world class 42.2k road race must be challenging.

Distances: 42.2k, 21.1K, 10K, 5K, 1.7K family run

Date: March 18, 2016

Number of participants: 25,000+

www.jerusalem-marathon.com

Thankfully, Jerusalem has a running nerd for a mayor. In 2009, Nir Barkat celebrated his 50th birthday by running the New York City Marathon, his sixth crack at the full. “When I was there, I looked at the details of the event,” said Barkat at the race’s press conference on the rooftop patio of the posh Mamilla Hotel. The venture capitalist turned politician had just started the second year of his mandate, but he was convinced that bringing a marathon to his city would unite people. “It then took us a year and a half of planning,” he said, sitting comfortably with the field of world class elite runners brought to compete. “The marathons I’ve run are the inspiration for this one.”

The Jerusalem Marathon became Barkat’s personal passion project. After giving a pool of journalists tips on how to run the city’s unforgiving hills, Barkat proudly proclaims his marathon PB (4:13) and begins describing the course, which he designed himself and calls his “baby.” “I wanted to make sure we go through the beautiful sites, the buildings and the history,” Barkat said of the twisty and varying course. The marathon reveals the mayor’s historical curiosity, ability to construct a challenging yet fun running experience and his flair for the dramatic.

The race starts close Israel’s monolithic national parliament, the Knesset. Nearby is the impressive Jerusalem Museum and the university. In an early highlight runners enter the Jaffa Gate into the Old City, past the Tower of David. Although it’s a shame that runners don’t get to spend more time running through the corridors of the Armenian quarter, it’s probably for the best, as the ancient cobblestones are hard on the feet. However brief, this section of the course captures what makes the Jerusalem Marathon so mesmerizing. Thousands of years of conflict and community are layered here – the walls pock-marked from bullets during the Independence War in 1948; the Jaffa Gate (which was actually only built in 1538 during Ottoman rule); and, just around the corner, the Tower of David, built by King Herod more than 2,000 years ago.

But the best is saved for the last kilometres of the race, when you climb Mount Scopus. All of that hard work is paid off with one of the most spectacular views in all of running. In Latin, Scopus means “the Watcher,” and it’s clear why, as the entire Old City of Jerusalem and the surrounding modern city lay below. Here is where the Romans waited before the siege of Jerusalem and the destruction of the Temple Mount in 70 AD. It is also where the Crusaders camped in 1099. At the end of a very tough 42.2K tour of the most sacred city in the world, this stunning view illustrates the fragility, complexity and magnificence of Jerusalem.

The race ends in a large park, where the 25,000 participants from more than 60 countries enjoy the mild weather and post-race carnival-like festivities. Jerusalem is a city of extremes and stark contrasts. The event feels entirely safe, even though the threat of conflict is always looming in the region. And on this morning Mayor Barkat’s gamble has paid off, with the race growing into a major destination marathon. “People are coming here and connecting to Jerusalem in different ways,” he said, adding that this race brings the city together, perhaps like no other single event. And in a place that’s been fought over for thousands of years, that’s an extraordinary feat, revealing the power of the marathon.

Getting There

Both Air Canada and Israel’s national airline, El Al, offer direct flights from Toronto to Tel Aviv. Either rent a car or take a bus for the one hour drive southeast to Jerusalem. Israel is a tiny country, so it is worth considering car rental in order to take day trips to Masada, the Dead Sea, Tiberius or Haifa.

Where to Stay

Jerusalem has a variety of options in both the Old and New City. The aforementioned Mamilla Hotel is a great upscale option. It’s located near the Jaffa Gate. A fun option within the Old City is the Austrian Hospice of the Holy Family. The 152-year-old building has decent accommodations and one of the finest rooftop views in the city.

What to Do

Jerusalem’s religious and historical sites are too many to list, but the highlights include the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (where Jesus is said to have been crucified and buried), the Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount (one of the most sacred and iconic structures of the Muslim faith) and the Western Wall, which now gets 10,000,000 visitors a year. Also make sure to walk off the post-race soreness at the open-air Mahane Yehude Market.